The Paternkofel Crossing with the Three Peaks Circumnavigation
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View from the summit of the Paternkofel to the north faces of the Drei Zinnen.Photo: Rüdiger Kratz, St. Ingbert
After the traverse, the tour can be extended by walking completely around the Three Peaks. If you leave early enough, you should not miss this magnificent panoramic tour. During the traverse of the Paternkofel, passages of difficulty level I (UIAA) have to be overcome. In places, the difficult walking terrain is extremely exposed. A head for heights is absolutely essential. In the early summer months, the tunnel can still be icy in places. The route is mainly exposed on the east side. The protection in the path itself is good.
Track typesShow elevation profile
Safety informationThe via ferrata is suitable for experienced via ferrata climbers. Surefootedness, a head for heights and arm strength are prerequisites. It is recommended to check the current weather forecast for the destination region.
Tips and hints
Weather Service Province of Bolzano
From the large car park at the Auronzo Hut (2320 m), we follow the wide and signposted trail along the scree slopes below the Zinnen south walls flatly in a north-easterly direction. Shortly before the Lavaredo Hut (2344 m) we turn left and climb over scree towards the north to the Paternsattel (2454 m).
Route:From the Paternsattel we follow a scree ridge towards the northeast. Below the walls of the Paßportenkopf we reach a path. Follow this to the left into the west face of the Paßportenkopf. A tunnel (headlamp!) leads us to a band. Here we find wire ropes and in places climbing of difficulty grade I UIAA. Our route leads us level to a rock window and through this to the right up to the Passportenscharte (2589 m). A covered, artificial ribbon leads us to the left to the east side of the Paternkofel south ridge and to a saddle. A marked path leads us north-east over scree up into the Passportenkar. We then climb over scree and stepped rock to the Gamsscharte (2650 m). On the left is the summit of the Paternkofel, on the right the east ridge. We descend briefly to the left and into the steep flank (B/C, upper part of the Innerkofler De Luca-Steige). Steep rock and scree-covered ledges lead us - finally over an unsecured little wall - up to the summit of the Paternkofel (2744 m).
From the summit we turn back along our ascent route to the Gamsscharte. From here we turn north. A gully leads us down (A/B) towards Galleria Paterno, the long and unlit war tunnel. We descend via this tunnel in the direction of the Dreizinnenhütte. Near the exit of the tunnel we see the so-called "Frankfurter Würstel", a striking, needle-like rock tower. Passing this, we reach the Dreizinnenhütte without difficulty.
Return with Dreizinnen circumambulation:
From the Dreizinnenhütte, we turn southwest and follow the marked, gently sloping hiking trail towards Forcella Col di Mezzo (2315 m) west of the Westliche Zinne. During our walk to Forcella Col di Mezzo we always have the imposing north faces of the Three Peaks in view. From the Forcella Col di Mezzo we turn towards the southeast and just reach our starting point again, the car park at the Auronzo Hut.
Public-transport-friendlyBy train to Dobbiaco, continue by bus to the Auronzo Hut
Getting thereItaly: A22 (Brenner motorway to the Brixen/Pustertal exit, via the SS49 to Dobbiaco, from Dobbiaco via the SS51 to Schluderbach, continue along the SS48bis, then SP49 to Misurina, from here via the Via MOnte Piana (subject to a charge) to the car park at the Auronzo hut.
ParkingParking at the Auronzo Hut
EquipmentVia ferrata equipment with rockfall helmet and via ferrata gloves. It is strongly recommended to bring a headlamp (long, unlit tunnels in the via ferrata)!
- 8 Waypoints
- 8 Waypoints
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